A Kinematic Criterion for the Breaking of Shoaling Waves

Abstract eng:
An experimental study was conducted with the aim of validating the kinematic criterion introduced for breaking of shoaling waves, based on approach by Shemer and Liberzon (2014) [2]. Special attention was dedicated to the relation between the instantaneous horizontal water velocity U and the instantaneous propagation speed of the crest on a verge of breaking. It was found that the inception of a breaker occurs when the monotonically increasing water particle velocity on the crest exceeds that of the slowing steep crest. Additionally, an objective method of breaking detection was developed utilizing the Phase-Time Method [1]. These results' main expected contributions are the formation of an applicable criterion, accompanied by wave breaking detection method independent of human decision. Incorporation of these into existing waves prediction models will contribute significantly to marine projects efficiency and eventually reduce design, construction and operational costs.

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